Science of hollandaise: it's easier than it looks (2024)

Creamy hollandaise is used to top the most iconic of all breakfast dishes, Eggs Benedict. (Press-Register file photo)

Emulsion: A mixture of two unblendable liquids

Now, class, it’s time to move into the science lab — excuse me, I mean into the kitchen — for our next cooking project — making Hollandaise sauce.

There are scientific principles at play here that, once you understand them, prove to be rather simple.

You will learn that this lovely, lemony sauce can be produced perfectly in about three minutes flat. Your reputation as a cook of rare and exceptional ability can be established that quickly.

Imagine, if you will, the exclamations of praise from an adoring audience as you whip the eggs to a froth, toss in the lumps of butter, and dress the asparagus with a flourish.

The scientific principle here is the development of an emulsion, using egg yolks and lemon juice as agents of that process.

You will whisk the egg yolks so vigorously that thousands, perhaps millions, of egg globules are suspended in a mixture of lemon juice, salt and pepper.

This is done over heat to encourage the process. While the whisking is vigorous, the heating must be gentle lest you end with scrambled egg tainted with lemon juice.

Of course, there is a secret to the success of your sauce, and I shall share it with you. You must hold your pan in one hand, the whisk in the other, and never let go of either one until you have an emulsion. Only then do you add the butter.

Here’s the process:

In a small pan, put one egg yolk, one tablespoon cream, a pinch or two of salt, a dash of pepper and the juice of one lemon. Whisk well to blend.

With the pan in your left hand and the whisk in your right (or the opposite if you are left-handed) warm over medium heat, whisking all the while. Move the pan repeatedly on the heat, then off the heat, still whisking without letup.

In a couple of minutes or so, the mixture will resemble a thick custard. Now you can put down the whisk for as long as it takes for you to toss in two tablespoons of butter.

Pick up the whisk again and beat until the butter is melted and mixed in. Voila, you have made Hollandaise sauce.

Any questions, class?

Q:

Do I have to use real butter?

A:

It’s your kitchen, so of course you may use whatever you like. But the lovely texture and the buttery taste depend on your using butter.

As a test, I tried making this with margarine — Margarinaise sauce, if you will — and it had the proper appearance but tasted rather oily.

I would not attempt to make this sauce with the other butter substitutes. They have a lower percentage of fat and a higher water content and probably wouldn’t emulsify properly.

I am compelled to tell you that in some circles it is considered a sacrilege to use any but the finest butter available.

Q:

Why is it called Hollandaise?

A:

During World War I, butter was hard to come by in France so it was imported from Holland. The name identifies the source of the butter and the nomenclature has never been readdressed.

Q:

What do I use Hollandaise sauce for?

A:

Pouring Hollandaise sauce over steamed asparagus is an excellent use. So is spooning the sauce over the poached egg in Eggs Benedict.

Q:

Exactly how does one poach an egg? Do I need to buy a poacher?

A:

The answer to the last question is no. To answer the first, poaching an egg is simple.

You bring a pan of water to a boil, remove the pan from the heat. Crack an egg into a shallow bowl. Stir the water and slip the egg into the gently swirling water.

This will wrap the egg white neatly around the yolk. Cover the pan and wait four or five minutes.

Remove the egg from the water with a slotted spoon. If you want to hold the egg a short time while you whip up the Hollandaise sauce, you may ease the cooked egg into a bowl of very warm water.

The egg won’t overcook nor will it get cold.

Q:

Do you have a recipe for Eggs Benedict?

A:

Yes.

Eggs Benedict

2 servings

1 English muffin, split

Butter, softened

2 slices Canadian bacon

2 poached eggs

Hollandaise sauce (recipe follows)

Toast the English muffin halves, then spread lightly with butter.

Place a slice Canadian bacon on each muffin half. Top with a poached egg and cover with 2 tablespoons of Hollandiase sauce. Serve immediately.

Hollandaise Sauce

2 servings

1 egg yolk

1 tablespoon cream

Juice of one lemon

Salt and pepper, taste

2 tablespoons butter

In a deep pan, whisk together the egg yolk, cream, lemon juice, salt and pepper.

Place over medium heat and whisk vigorously on and off the heat until the mixture resembles a thick custard. Add the butter and whisk to blend.

Serve immediately.

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This story was written by Betsy Osborne, Special to the Press-Register